Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
